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A little way down the coast at Comporta, there are even more ambitious plans afoot, in hopes of attracting the kind of well-to-do hedonists that can usually be found in Dubai, Marbella or Quinta do Lago.Only this time, the developers are trying to do it the green way.Like Prague or Krakow, Lisbon feels like a town that's come late to hedonism and is still getting to grips with it.Less West Coast, then – more Eastern Europe, with better seafood.Of those, 1.2 million were British – a 12 per cent increase.British tourists spent 6.3 million nights in Portugal, up by 14 per cent.Which brings us to a dry, hot, sparsely populated land east and south of Lisbon.

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At Zambujeira, the straight, sandy roadside track is broken by smaller trails, where you can take your chances on the breezy cliffs.You get organic fruit and pastries with your breakfast coffee, and all this costs from €75 (£60) a night. The Monte da Galrixa is part of a new front just opened for the foot soldiers of European tourism – the ramblers.It's one of the many rural stopovers on the Rota Vicentina, a 338km trail that winds from Cape St Vincent in the far south west, to Santiago do Cacem in the Alentejo.I have the presentation here on my computer screen. It has mile upon mile of beaches, including the longest coastal national park in Europe.It promises a land of sun, sea and surfing, a country of people who are "creative, open and welcoming, who wish to share with you the best of everything that they have and know about, appealing to your senses and celebrating life". And, think about it – the main city, linked to the principal landmass by two suspension bridges, is full of steep hills, trams and rolling fogs, and once suffered a famous earthquake. But Portugal is not California, and Lisbon is not San Francisco.If there was a souring of relations between British holidaymakers and package holiday Portugal after Madeleine Mc Cann disappeared in May 2007, that's long since changed.

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